A Russian emerald and diamond-set enameled gold brooch
Alexander Adolfovich Treiden, St. Petersburg, before 1899
In the Mughal taste, allover enameled with dianthus in red, green, and gold against an ivory-enameled ground, separated with five rose-diamond set whorls converging upon a brilliant-cut emerald.
Dia: 1 in.
Alexander Adolfovich Treiden (1858-?) was a Russian master goldsmith and jeweler known for his experimental enamel styles. While he worked most frequently in an original plique-a-jour technique, he was also known for producing elaborate effects in guilloche. Russian jewelers often explored exotic ornament, but this brooch in the Mughal style is unusual and perhaps unique.
Treiden and Karl Blank served as the two chief workmasters for the St. Peterbsurg firm of Hahn, one of Faberge's main competitors. Trieden and Blank were largely responsible for most of the Hahn firm's Imperial presentation cases. (Cf case with diamond-set cypher of Alexandra Feodorovna, sold Christie's London, 8 June 2010, lot 160.)
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